sedona legend helen frye

A True Friend is Not Forgotten

Sedona Legend Profile Series

Sedona's history with the arts is thanks to some remarkable early Sedona residents!

Sedona Arts Center, in the late 1950's, as shown above. Photo is courtesy of Bob Bradshaw, the renowned Sedona photographer. It is said all the original Sedona Arts Center founders are seen in this photo. Helen Varner Frye, one of the original founders of the Sedona Arts Center, Inc. (Sedona Arts Barn) is seen reclining under the tree on the far left, cloaked in shadow. Per Helen's good friend Marie Stilley, "Nassan Gobran and Cecil J. Lockhart-Smith, both stood right here in front of my fireplace and told me that Helen had suggested they secure the former packing barn, (shown above) for an art center. It had been previously used for apples and peaches." Marie went on to say, emphatically, "if it had not been for Helen Frye, Nassan, and Cecil there would never have been a Sedona Arts Center!"

It all started with a simple phone call-
"did you know Helen Frye?"

Soon after that conversation, our car wound its way through new Flagstaff developments and million-dollar-homes, eventually we slowly passed two stone pillars which said: "Stilley Ranch." Continuing up a long winding road, through a thick Ponderosa forest, both of us remarked at the scene which reminded us of traveling back in time, to Arizona's western past. Choosing between several old rustic log cabins, we proceeded to the largest one, enhanced by two flags fluttering on a flagpole out front. The top of the hill was crowned with a sprawling 1940's Arizona-style ranch house.

As we got out of our car we noticed a ranch hand exiting the dwelling who turned to us and called, "hello, come on up!" The man held the door while we entered with my equipment. "Go on in," he said, "Marie will be with you in a minute." Standing in the middle of a dated old-fashion-kitchen we slowly let our eyes grow accustomed to the dim light, the smell of wood smoke assailed our senses. I immediately noticed an older woman in the adjoining room poking at a stubborn fire that refused to explode to life. Finally she raised up, turned and said cheerfully, "come on in boys!" After warm introductions, we sat down in a cozy room accented by a wall of glass which looked up hill to the San Francisco Peaks. In the foreground of these forever views, were vintage ranch buildings set among the pines and green lawns.

Our conversation centered around Jack and Helen Frye, and as it related to our hostess' own rich story of life in this formerly rugged, Northern Arizona Territory. Part Cherokee, Marie and her dentist husband, John came out west from Oklahoma in the mid-1940's. Her home- "really a former lodge built by the Hopis," she explained, "started out as a dude ranch." Yes, this Arizonan family has lived for over 50 years at what was originally the Flying "W" Ranch, built in the 1920's; destination of many celebrities seeking solitude and the western experience. The charming grounds now at just 90 or so of the original 160 acres are still peppered with the remaining historic dude ranch buildings.

"We bought this property from Dr. Harold S. Colton who was the founder of the Museum of Northern Arizona, just up the road," Marie explained. Colton requested the Stilleys not sub-divide or sell any of the property for at least 20-30 years, an unwritten agreement they faithfully honored. In this picturesque setting, from 1946, the Stilley family found their "Shangri La." Originally just 5 of them, now, with their own families. "We raised our sons here," Marie said proudly, "one is an attorney, the other a retired oil executive, the third an architect." We listened, as Marie passionately continued her tale of re-settling out west!

"The lodge itself was a disaster," Marie continued, "I thought we would have to tear it down and start all over. When we originally purchased the ranch, it was the land we desired. Here we were trying to pay for all this property, and we were faced with the burden of possibly building a brand new house. John called me one day from his office and said he had a new patient he really liked, who wanted to see our former lodge and who might offer us some ideas of what to do with the building. I said, bring her on out, I'd love to meet her!" This "patient" turned out to be Mrs. Jack Frye, from Sedona. Marie went on to explain, "when Helen arrived she walked from room to room accessing the aging structure, 'Live in it,' Helen exclaimed cheerfully!" "Oh my" said Marie, "I couldn't imagine such a thing, the building was a wreck from floor to ceiling. This was all crowned by dingy black laquered logs, which supported a dubious roof." Marie continued-

"Helen, never one to pass up a renovation, rolled up her sleeves and jumped right in! She proceeded to paint one room which became the master bedroom suite, a pale yellow with a finishing coat of white, over the logs which supported the massive roof. 'This will highlight the room,' Helen said excitedly!" "The result was impressive," said Marie proudly, "the paint remains to this day as seen on the ceilings. The logs in the great room, so black they were hideous- well to that Helen said simply and matter-of-factly, 'strip them!' Like such a task could easily be accomplished," exclaimed Marie! But this is exactly what Marie did. The final result was a warm ambience of tawny brown accented by painted white rock walls. For the lodge kitchen, Helen recommended they purchase cupboards from Sears and Roebuck. "After they were mounted, Helen painted them too. "Mrs. Frye was an artist who could make anything look stylish and sheik," Marie stated. It is interesting to note that Helen Frye fitted out her kitchen at the House of Apache Fires in the same manner. During the war, custom cabinet makers were difficult to obtain.

And so it went- Marie's rustic old dude ranch "lodge" soon became a comfortable home over time. Eventually the family settled into what was akin to a rustic resort, an experience of growing up at, surely, what would now be considered one of Northern Arizona's most rare landmark properties. "The 30-some-foot-deep-well was originally dug by the Hopis," explained Marie, "it would be filled with water in the spring but proved inadequate at other times." "We need a better well," Marie stated firmly to her husband one day. However, after checking around a bit the Stilleys were told, "you just don't drill into the Malapai, it simply isn't done!" However, a well was urgently needed, so an attempt had to be executed in the layered shale. "We didn't know where to drill," Marie said, "so I told John, those Hopis must have known something, so let's drill in the same location as our old well." After some drilling, with no results, Marie wondered if perhaps they were making a big mistake, "with every ka-chunk of that mighty drill bit," Marie said, "I could just see the dollars go down the drain, or rather down the well!" Finally they did indeed hit water and it gushed all over the yard. From that point on, the well has served the property more than amply.

After a while our hostess asked us if we would like to see the rest of the lodge? We followed her up and down different levels to a cavernous, long, great-room with low log ceilings and ancient white painted stone walls. Everywhere we wandered we observed treasures from the Stilley family's life in this once remote locale. "Would you like to see the old guest register from the lodge?" Marie asked, as she gingerly removed the heavy binder from an over-stuffed bookcase. Gently, we helped her hold what looked like an old movie prop covered with, as Marie pointed out, "Indian tanned cowhide." Gingerly, we turned the pages and reviewed the memorabilia; famous guest names and the coming and goings of dude ranch visitors from nearly 80 years ago. "Joe Grant, a Walt Disney artist stayed here once with Walt Disney's sister," Marie said excitedly as she located a color drawing of a deer at the back of the binder. "This," Marie said, "was the real Bambi from the famous Disney movie." With rather large ears a spotted deer gazed back at us. The story goes that the artist and Ruth Disney, were staying at the lodge and went for a walk one day in the forests out back. In a clearing of high grass they spotted a new-born-deer resting in the shadows, naturally they were inclined to stop and pet it. Joe expertly sketched the beautiful forest creature.

When they returned to the lodge someone told them, "you should never touch a fawn as the mother will come back and smell the human scent and abandon the baby, leaving it to starve to death." The two visitors were naturally distraught, having never heard this 'Law of Nature.' So it was decided that the deer would be moved to the dude ranch to live out it's life. The fawn settled in comfortably at the ranch and was a big hit with the guests. He became especially fond of Billi, the daughter of the ranch's owner, Leo Weaver and would sleep at night on the end of her bed in the lodge. Soon however, as little deer go, Bambi became a teenager and would start to exercise his authority by chasing and butting the guests. It was decided that he should go to live on a ranch up near the Grand Canyon. There he seemed to be happy, more so, after breaking into the sleeping porch of the ranch house when no one was home and claiming the bed there as his very own. Sadly, his life was short lived though, as by then he had a full set of antlers which made him an attractive target. After the first hunting season, Bambi was never to be seen again. Carefully replacing the ancient book, Marie led us over to a framed etching of an 'ole-time cowboy, that was faded and yellowed with age. Inscribed by Joe Grant, to Leo Weaver, this drawing looked like it originated in a Disney cartoon. "Leo," Marie said, "owned several dude ranches in Arizona, one at Wickenburg, and at Lee's Ferry."

Marie led us on to other corners of the comfortable room, where we noticed a Steinway piano and a Hammond organ. My musical friend was immediately drawn to them. "Do you play?" Marie asked inquisitivly? As he hesitated, I said, "don't let him fool you he's a consummate pianist." However no amount of cajoling could get him to sit and play for us. "Too rusty," was his curt reply. Continuing our tour, we stepped down a couple levels and found ourselves in the master suite; a large room with a private bath. There on a stand carefully displayed was yet another Frye story. Priceless in its detail and fragility, Marie proudly explained the history of this treasure, an ancient Hopi Indian Rug. "Helen and I found this together high up on the mesa, at a trading post that no longer exists," she explained, "we would often travel to the reservation on buying trips." This was evidenced by her lodge-style-home, which was accented by a multitude of Kachinas and other Native American treasures. "We would take my GMC camper truck at various times, camping and sight-seeing across the Mesas. It was on one of these adventures that Helen and I, at the same time, spied this beautiful rug," said Marie, "we both loved it immediately, but mutually, we decided Helen should take it home." Please see this page for more information about Helen Frye and the Hopi Navajo people.

Many years later, at the end of Helen's life she made sure that Marie received the treasure. "It is so much more beautiful laid out, and quite large too," said Marie. She then turned her attention to the ceiling, and with a sweep of her hand said, "these are the logs Helen Frye personally painted. I had no idea what to do with this room but she knew just how to brighten it up and make it into a real western home!"

"Soon we made it back into the adjoining room, which Marie said once served as her dining-living room area. "We had Jack and Helen up for dinner one evening, that's when I first met Jack Frye. We had our dinner right here in this room. Before hand I asked Helen, 'what does Jack like to eat?' Helen replied, 'he loves pinto beans.' So I cooked up a big pot of beans and served them with cornbread, pork chops, and a salad. A real Texas-style-dinner," Marie exclaimed excitedly, "and Jack loved it too!" She added, "He was the most humble man, unassuming, a real regular guy, certainly the kind of man you felt like you had known forever, and totally different than I expected."

On other walls of the large room Marie showed us several portraits. Three were of Marie's children at various ages. "Helen Frye painted these," exclaimed Marie proudly. Helen, an early Sedona artist was known to have painted many a portrait for her various friends. More examples of her work can be found on this page. Pete Stilley is seen to the left captured richly by Helen who showcased this young boy, as full of life and joy. (1950)

To the right, we see Tommy Stilley. Helen painted this one somewhat whimsically, with a water background, fishing, and a foreground of school work. It's obvious she painted it to reflect what Tommy would really rather be doing! (1957)

"Helen loved to paint and photograph Tom," Marie explained, "she felt he was very photogenic." To the left we see another portrait Helen painted of Tommy in his early years, (1951). The masterful way she painted the child makes the image nearly life like. Helen was truly a gifted artist, unfortunately after 50 years, her work is rarely seen, this because Helen did not actively market her art like so many other early Sedona artists. Marie related another "lost" Helen Frye work. "Helen panted a portrait of David and myself, which she had just finished. She called John and asked him to stop by and see it. When he did so, he said to her, 'that's a very nice painting, but who is it?' Helen was so annoyed when he didn't recognize the subjects, that she decided she would not release the painting to us. I don't know if she destroyed it or if it is still out there somewhere but I sure wish I had it here, hanging with the others," Marie stated softly.

We noticed one last portrait of a beautiful and stately woman. "Who painted this one?" I asked. Marie explained the portrait was of her and that a friend of she and Helen's, Zoe Mozert painted it in 1960. I was impressed with the radiance of the image. Marie continued, "Zoe, an early Sedona artist had a contract with Brown and Bigelow to do tasteful nudes for their calendars. She also did a portrait of my mother." By the time Zoe Mozert died, she was recognized as one of the country's foremost illustrators. She also did many paintings, however these are rarely seen now, some 50 years later. In Hollywood, Zoe did a variety of work, celebrity portraits and movie posters as in "The Outlaw," with Jane Russell, commissioned by Howard Hughes. In the infancy of Sedona many celebrities and artists came together to partake of the essence of the area's beautiful canyons and valleys. From Max Ernst and Dorothea Tanning, to Nassan Gobran, Helen Frye, and Zoe Mozert, naming just a few, a utopia was experienced!

With this story we are reminded that at one time Sedona was a very small town, intimate and exclusive, populated by some of the world's most famous artists. "We all knew each other," Marie said, "and attended all the same parties." Marie related several such gatherings, one at the Dorothea Tanning and Max Ernst home off Sedona's Brewer Road, and another at the Marguerite Staude Ranch, out by the Poco Diablo Resort, all attended by Helen, Nassan, Eddie Ellinger, Cecil Lockhart-Smith, and many others. Sculptress- Marguerite Brunswig Staude, a Frank Lloyd Wright disciple, was the architect of the famous Sedona, Chapel of the Holy Cross. This beautiful sculpture, built into the red rocks is now world-famous and many come from far away to experience its serenity!

Eventually, we found ourselves in the first room we had entered that day, which Marie explained was once a bedroom. "We didn't need it and rather than waste the lovely view, we decided to turn it into a sitting area," she explained. We all sat down by the warm inviting fire and talked about Helen Frye, and the impact she made on the lives of so many of her contemporaries. "There would be no Sedona Arts Center if it weren't for Helen Frye," Marie stated firmly. She continued, "in the beginning there was a search for a location which would be suitable for the new art school. One day I had Helen, Nassan Gobran, and Cecil Lockhart-Smith, here at my home. Nassan and Cecil stood right in front of my fireplace and told me it was Helen's idea to use the old Jordan apple and peach barn. With Helen's help they were able to eventually secure it, and the barn became the new Sedona Arts Center." It was initially these three early Sedona visionaries who were the driving force behind this project, a fact sadly missed with the current historical narrative of the origins of the Sedona Arts Center today!

"One time, a while after Jack and Helen had divorced," Marie said, "Helen had desired to sell out and move on. She rang me up and offered to sell John and I the entire Frye Ranch for just thirty thousand dollars!" "At the time," said Marie, "John and I owned so much property we just didn't need anymore. Just think though, what it would be worth today!" As for Jack Frye Marie said, "Helen loved him deeply- they were soul mates." Marie continued, "right before Jack died, he was at the ranch with Helen, the next day he was gone, Helen said they were planning a reconciliation," Marie looked away wistfully.

Marie continued her interesting narrative of early Sedona life, "our cabin in Sedona, which adjoins Helen's, Wings of the Wind, was a project for the boys and their father on the weekends. That's why it is so rustic and simple." Marie went on to explain, "John received the property through a forest service land trade in 1947. He had been to the forest service office in Sedona inquiring about available parcels. They told him about a 20-acre parcel that adjoined the Frye, Smoke Trail Ranch. At that time, the U.S.F.S. only cared about timbered land, the red rocks were worthless to them. Eventually, John found a parcel in the Arizona White Mountains which was acceptable to them for a trade, about 120 acres. Back then, a trade required about 5-6 acres to 1."

So when all was said and done the available 20-acre parcel became the Stilley property, off Red Rock Loop Road in Sedona. "And that," Marie continued, "is how we became neighbors of Jack and Helen Frye! Later, when we built the cabin, we didn't have any water so Helen let us run a hose over to her Wings of the Wind well. Soon though, we realized that this wouldn't do for long and we went ahead and drilled our own well. We have had good water down there every since." The Fryes and the Stilleys became close friends and neighbors. Sheer cliffs separate the properties which are both perched on rocky pinnacles. At the end of her life Helen was living a life of quiet solitude at the Wings of the Wind. Marie and Helen would often visit back and forth, (or rather shout) across the abyss (between the cliffs) to check on each other and share news as good neighbors do. "Have you climbed our steel ladder?" Marie continued, "it was too far and hot to walk around all the other adjoining properties every time we wanted to get to the creek for a cool dip so we hired a man who worked with steel to fashion us a ladder over the cliff and down to the creek. It was the perfect solution and the ladder is still solid and strong!"

Nearly forgotten at the end of our visit in a corner of the room we were showed one last treasure, by Marie. Seen to the right, at nearly three-feet-high, is a driftwood-like sculpture entitled,
"The Beginning." "Helen and Nassan found the piece of wood together down on Oak Creek at Helen's ranch, the end result is what you see here," said Marie proudly. Looking closer we could see that it was truly a masterpiece, artfully carved by what must have been very gifted hands. "Nassan just added the heads, the rest is natural," said Marie. A reminder of an art legacy left behind by Helen Frye and Nassan Gobran. A piece, I daresay, few people know exists today! So with that, we packed up the equipment and said goodbye to our charming hostess. On the way home we both marveled at all the glorious history we had learned and we were moved by what a loyal friend Helen Frye had in Marie Stilley! I turned to my friend and said, "I think this will all make a wonderful story!" The End!

Helen Frye, center, with her and Marie's friend, Rosie Armijo, and her husband Frank. Baldwin's Crossing, now known as Red Rock Crossing, 1955.

IN LOVING MEMORY OF SEDONA LEGEND
HELEN VIRGINIA VARNER VANDERBILT FRYE
November 28, 1908
December 4, 1979
Paintings below and above were commissioned by Jack Frye in 1942.
Artist: Arnold G. Mountfort

Please note- Sir Arnold "Monty" G. Mountfort, and his wife, Patricia, "Paddy" were intimate friends of the Frye's. Mountfort painted these two stunning portraits in 1942, possibly at the Frye Deer Lick Ranch, now Cross Creek Ranch in Sedona. However it is more likely they were painted at the Frye Smoke Trail Ranch "Willow House," as the Fryes were residing there by fall of '41. Mountfort's wife Paddy, managed the Sedona property for the Fryes it is thought from about 1945 to 1947, after her husband's death.

It must be noted that Helen Varner Vanderbilt Frye was certainly well-connected in her love of the arts! Her aunt (by marriage) to Cornelius Vanderbilt Jr., was none other than Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, (Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney.) This prominent woman, one of America's most valued artists and art patrons founded the Whitney Museum of American Art. For more information on this period of Helen's life, please see this section.

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Sedona Legend Helen Frye