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Life at Smoke Trail Ranch
From 1962 to 1979
Sedona Legend Historical Series
Sedona Legend, Helen Varner Vanderbilt Frye, riding on her famous Smoke Trail Ranch in Sedona Arizona. Press Photo Circa mid 1960's.At the top left of the photo one sees the famous Sedona "Wings of the Wind" house. Helen, an avid horsewoman, was often seen riding the many acres of her vast property with several of her beloved dogs. In 1941 she became one of Sedona's very first celebrities, along with her husband, Jack Frye, long-time president, and one of the original three founding fathers of TWA.
Windows in time....
To the left, Helen and Elisa are photographed sitting outside of the Wings of the Wind on an autumn day in 1967. The admiration between the two is unmistakable.
Please click on photos, some are are linked to larger versions.
Yet another Southwestern influenced fireplace which compliments the master bedroom suite. This Frye house was decorated with rare and priceless Native American art objects, some gifts from the Hopi People to this remarkable woman of whom they adored. Helen Frye was invited to attend many Native American ceremonies which were never seen by the public. In turn the Hopis, Yavapais, and Navajos were often entertained at the Frye Ranch. The decor of the home was a combination of furnishings from Helen and Jack's- House of Apache Fires, Overland Park- Kansas, chateau mansion, and famous Washington D.C. estate, the "Doubleday Mansion". On the walls of the Frye homes were said to hang priceless original masters rarely seen outside of national art museums. This was attributed to Jack and Helen their entire lives being avid art patrons. As well, likely Helen was influenced by her aunt Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, founder of the famous Whitney Museum in New York City. In Sedona, Helen Frye helped found the Sedona Arts Center.
I am always searching for "vintage" photos of the Frye's and Smoke Trail Ranch, although such images can be quite elusive after 60 years. Displayed below are a few such images. Welcome and  travel back in time and visit Helen's, Wings of the Wind @ Smoke Trail Ranch, the way she and her many friends experienced it.
Adjoining, we see Elisa reading a "Highlights" magazine in the grand living room, 1968. The fireplace on the left, supplied warm flickering flames which enhanced many a lovely Helen Frye dinner party.
Wings of the Wind in 1968. These images show the built in planters with water taps, a Helen Varner Vanderbilt Frye design. As you will find from viewing this page, Helen purposely designed the Wings of the Wind to be comfortable and Arizona-rustic, not formal.
Contruction of the Wings of the Wind was initiated in the summer of 1961 and completed by the end of 1962. Please see this page called: Journey Into Spirit.
In 1965 just three years after the Wings of the Wind was built, Helen sits with her favorite godchild Elisa on one of the built-in sofas.
Another view of the interior of the Wings of the Wind in 1963 one year after construction. It shows us a custom sculptured fireplace with tile work. The floors of the villa were a highly polished faux marble-look. The entire project, personally designed by Helen Frye, was one of Sedona's premier show place estates. The floor to ceiling windows frame one of many patio overlooks, featuring breathtaking vistas!
Riding Horses at Helen's
Wings of the Wind in 1967
Helen Frye loved horses and everyone who stayed at Wings of the Wind would always be invited to ride the many trails of Smoke Trail Ranch. This tradition started in 1941 when Helen and Jack Frye entertained their many celebrity guests with authentic Arizona trail rides. These guests included the Roosevelts, Faye Emerson, Max Ernst and Dorothea Tanning, Marlene Dietrich, Howard Hughes, Gene Tierney, and Tyrone Power. Unfortunately, many names are now lost to time and photos lost, please see this page.
The Wings of the Wind showing Walter Duncan, Helen's loyal Smoke Trail Ranch foreman for nearly 25 years. He lived with his wife at Smoke Trail Ranch.
The sound of War Drums spill out of the Wings of the Wind and drift over the peaks and valleys of Smoke Trail Ranch.
Not just any drums, but authentic antiques. These drums from the House of Apache Fires, were either given to Jack and Helen Frye, or purchased on their many travels. Helen's home was filled with priceless artifacts, many given to her by the Hopis and Navajos. Helen owned a half dozen German Shepherds through the years. The first was "Sonja" who Helen "rescued" from abusive owners in New York City when she was married to Cornelius Vanderbilt Jr. See this page.  
1967
Every child's dream: to be taught how to play Native American Indian Drums by the former wife of the founder of Trans World Airlines! See this page for details.
Wings of the Wind Storm of '67
Written By Helen Varner Frye
The following text was adapted from a story Helen wrote in the mid 1970's.
Because I believed in "far out" spiritual teachings and began living them, even proving their worth in my life- I often found myself the laughingstock of the town's jeers....never that it mattered, only that it induced a strange kind of loneliness and simply because there was no one, no where, to share my joys.
What a tremendous memorable and gratifying period in that winter of '67. Awakening one morning to a heavy snow storm swirling over the red rock country, and six inches of white slick freezing powder already on the ground making the down-hill and back up-hill jaunt to the barn a hazardous trip....but Malbrouk had to be fed twice a day. However I did put off going down the road to my rural post box for the mail that morning. Soon after the winds calmed but the volume of the snow only increased....and day after day it never slackened....enormous flakes falling heavily and steadily....closing and holding down visibility to zero-zero. 
Every minute of that storm was soothing to me. After that recent terrifying and hellish experience there came a definite change in the atmosphere. It was being cleansed by the great white snows....my space was getting an ethereal bath of Love.
Radio news about the necessity for hay-lifts to stranded and starving cattle to Northern Arizona brought me out of a one-tract thought pattern of only myself. The wild animals-- WHO would feed them? The snow had to stop! My private telephone line seemed the only one working on the Red Rock Loop....so I phoned far and wide asking only those whom I knew would really in their hearts pray with me for the snows to cease. Next morn the skies were clear and burning blue with blinding sunshine on a dazzling white world. Not a red rock showed! It was so beautiful I could only think of the old one by the name of Harvy who one afternoon had stopped by the Wings of the Wind house to point a gnarled forefinger and say, "Out yonder, there between here and the canyons lays a spiritual city that's been there since before time".   
I did not doubt the old man with his bleary eyes and his awesome words. Yet neither did I believe him, then. Not until the skies cleared after the great '67 snow storm and deep blue shadows formed their pattern of contrasting magic upon the dazzling silver that lay deep on the entire canyon hiding the total reality of all its identifying color....then and there manifested in silent grandeur was the proof of the old man's enchanting vision!
The "Wings of the Wind" house snowbound for two moon quarters began catering to wild feathered guests of great variety. Feasting on horse-chow, dog chow, and popcorn under the sheltered veranda on the cliffs above Oak Creek. Their songs thrilled from dawn till twilight, echoing through the hushed stillness.
A few days of warm sunshine and the four feet of packed snow on the flat roof of the Wings of the Wind house began to melt. The weight had damaged the roof and I began the constant job of emptying buckets and pans, trying to keep the house dry inside. At this phase I suddenly felt compelled to go down below the sheer cliff on which the house is built, to search for my German Shepherd who had strangely been missing for the last 18 hours.
My struggle to get across the steep slopes of fallen boulders studded with cacti and buried deep within the crusted snow with a solid topping of sparkling ice, was rougher going than I had anticipated. Slender and physically strong though I was in those days I found it an exhausting trick to sink a foot through the crust of ice and be let down to the crotch then lean forward somehow managing to drag the other leg up and pull out through the same hole it went down.
To move from one end of the 500 foot terrain to the other side took hours. The short cut back through the terrain wasn't easy but I managed to make it. Puffing and blowing I topped out with a heavy sadness dragging at my heels. No Silver-dog and no sign of her tracks. Suddenly I heard a voice calling to me from a distance and when I reached the road area I not only found the County's heavy equipment had been there freeing me from ten days of isolation, but I had visiting car tracks. It turned out to be my thoughtful neighbor, Genie, who lived a couple miles away....He had followed the blade in his four-wheel drive and brought my mail which had lain in the rural post box for nine days.
Genie was startled at the sight of my fiery red eye....I busted a blood vessel in my struggle up the cliff, however I assured him it didn't hurt and that it would clear up....soon. I told him my concern was for my missing dog. He consoled me with the only positive statement I have ever heard him express, "Ah, she's all right, and she'll be coming home anytime now". He handed over the mail and pulled away. As I turned toward the Wings of the Wind, Silver- bounded out of no where-- happy, enthusiast and in good health. Never to this day have I solved the mystery of her long night out with the snow too deep for her legs to travel....Note: This is one of the worst snow storms to ever hit Sedona. Not only did it severely damage the Apache Fires house partially collasping the roof, but it destroyed many cabins in the region as well.
Sedona Arizona-
A favorite of
Film Makers
Helen and Jack Frye's Smoke Trail Ranch was the backdrop of many movies, although many have been forgotten. For example, Helen was heard to say, "Broken Arrow," with Jeff Chandler, was partly filmed at the ranch. Other films included Walt Disney's "The Boy and The Eagle," filmed inside and outside the House of Apache Fires, and the NBC movie called "Wilderness Road," filmed at the Wings of the Wind in 1969. Many others in and around Smoke Trail Ranch are included if they had some sort of connection to the Frye's.
In the adjoining photos we see the stunningly beautiful Rhonda Fleming. Below she is captured with Glenn Ford.
The adjoining photo is courtesy of Paramount Pictures, and Bob Bradshaw. From left to right, Glenn Ford, Rhonda Fleming, and Edmund O'Brien.
In a photo not seen on this page, we see Helen Frye captured on the movie set of the "Redhead and the Cowboy" (1950), where she played a role as an extra. The image shows Helen with Glenn Ford, Rhonda Fleming, and Edmond O'Brien, (as identified by Bob Bradshaw). The photo was taken at the filiming location of Woo Ranch, near the Palatiki Ruins, out toward Boynton Canyon, in Sedona. During this time period, Helen was still married to Jack Frye, then President and CEO of Aniline Film Corporation of New York City. See this profile on Sedona Legend.
Helen Frye in her Vanderbilt and TWA years, socialized and became close friends with many Hollywood celebrities. This carried over to Sedona where she and Jack Frye often  entertained Hollywood friends at the ranch. This brings us to a little known story. In 1952, while "Pony Soldier," was being filmed in Sedona and Flagstaff, Helen and Tyrone Power starting spending considerable time together. As time went on Ty would fly out to Sedona and stay with Helen at Smoke Trail Ranch, and subsquently he and Helen became quite close, so much so that they were to be married, as soon as he could obtain a divorce from his then wife. See story here.
In 1971, "The Wild Rovers" was filmed among other locations at: as newspapers stated, "the Helen Varner Frye home," in Sedona. Further research is needed to establish if this indicates the Apache Fires house, or the Wings of the Wind.
Leave her to Heaven, partly filmed on Schnebly Hill in Sedona. Gene and Helen were said to be friends, details unknown. However, Gene loved to ride horses around Sedona, and this may be how they met, perhaps she rode with Helen on Smoke Trail Ranch.
Made for Television, "Wilderness Road," NBC, 1969-1970, photo courtesy Bob Bradshaw. Setting is the driveway of Wings of the Wind.
The beautiful interior of Wings of the Wind is displayed vibrantly with these two photographs, captured during the filming of "Wilderness Road." The actors, from left to right, Ned Romero, Monika Ramirez, (sometimes billed as Monica Ramierez)
and Ms. Lenka Peterson.
The soundman is adjusting "Luke's" microphone. The actor in the background to the right, although familiar looking, is unidentified.
Unidentified child actor named "Luke" reflecting on his lines.
Walt Disney Studios, "The Legend of the Boy and the Eagle," 1967.  Produced for the weekly television show, the "Wonderful World of Disney," hosted by Walt Disney. Filmed at Smoke Trail Ranch, the House of Apache Fires, and Monument Valley, Arizona. See this page for more information.
Idyllic Life on Smoke Trail Ranch
Elisa stands outside the the door of the Wings of the Wind looking for her next adventure! Summer of 1965
Smoke Trail Ranch,
the 1960's....
A vista to behold, the nearly 800 acre Frye Smoke Trail Ranch as seen from the Wings of the Wind mount. Below is the Willow House, where President Roosevelt's son honeymooned in 1944, as guests of Jack and Helen Frye. Also the Armijo homestead, ranch stables and bunkhouse, with Jack and Helen's Apache Fire's house on the far bluff high above the babbling Oak Creek.
This incredible panorama from fall of 1965, shows the Wings of the Wind, from the south, likely right off Red Rock Loop Road. Not a house to be seen anywhere. At this time Helen Frye owned much of the entire valley. Helen Frye once said she was on the committee that named "Red Rock Loop" road.
The Wings of the Wind Estate from Smoke Trail Ranch, looking west from the other side of Oak Creek to the north. Notice the Wing's flagpole is missing at this early date of about 1965.
In 1973, Elisa plays with a puppy on the outdoor overlook patio of the  Wings of the Wind House.
This page would not be complete without including one of the most favorite activities.........
Smoke Trail Ranch and the Wings of the Wind- Swimming in Oak Creek!
Below the House of Apache Fires, at the ford.
Helen and Elisa in 1963, standing beneath a footbridge over Oak Creek at Smoke Trail Ranch.
The Apache Fires House rests above the creek, as Helen Frye and Elisa swim.         1965
Red Rock cliffs of Smoke Trail Ranch on a lazy summer day in 1968 with Rosie Armijo. (This scene is below the current Red Rock State Park entry station).
Returning from a long day of swimming, Elisa, Helen, and Doris Steider make the long trek back up to the Wings House while Mabrouk, (the horse that thought he was a person) watches. 1967
Nature and Harmony at the Frye Ranch
Evidently hummingbirds are not afraid of heights! As many found their way up to the clouds of the Wings of the Wind for a drink from Helen's feeders.        Summer of 1967
Racoons are a hungry lot and likely had no problem climbing way up to the Wings for a meal!
Dinner brings harmony to all wild creatures eating side by side.
"The Lost Weekend"
Wings of the Wind 1968
Helen Frye, September 1968. As was typical at the Wings of the Wind-- some friends dropped up for a visit. This group was associated with the A.R.E. in Scottsdale. Then per chance a group of outgoing strangers happened by the ranch while sightseeing! As was Helen's nature, all were invited to stay at the ranch for a long weekend of swimming, riding horses and southwestern hospitality. Remembered- now is a "lost weekend" of a long-ago-adventure of bonding and communion with a marvelous cook and a facinating woman, named Helen Frye. Young lives touched by fate creating a milestone in their early youth. As I interview people for this work, I have come to realize that Helen Frye WAS truly a legend-- mysterious, wonderful and never forgotten by the people whose lives she touched! This is truly "her" Sedona Legacy some 25 years later! The "Lost Weekend Photos" are courtesy of Clyde Munn who considers himself honored to have been welcomed into the world of Helen Frye.
Betty Nissen, Helen Frye, George Emery, and Clyde Munn.
Don't ever let Helen know you have a weakness for playing dress-up, or you will be coaxed into photo-shoots like these! Looks like fun!
Young airline pilot and his Norwegian girlfriend,
titled simply:
"the lovers."
Knowing Helen Frye meant the honor of being invited to meet all her friends. This evening was filled with laughter, cocktails, dinner, and singing and at the Pat Purchase house near Oak Creek Knolls. Helen sits in front of the fireplace.
Photos so precious....owned by a once, young man- now at 75, who resided out the country most of his life. When the destruction of Hurricane Hugo erased the memories of so many, this one album was found. Among it's tattered pages....these images somehow survived. A miracle, a reminder of a "Lost Weekend," at Helen Frye's, Wings of the Wind- a group of young people- all kindred spirits- taking time out- amid the turbulant sixties- for friendship and communion. Names elusive- the experience not- casual photographs- truly worth a thousand words, now etched in time!
Welcome and Goodbye
from Helen Frye's Wings of the Wind @ the Frye Ranch, Thank you for stopping in for a visit to this legendary Sedona landmark!
At the entrance to the Wings of the Wind,
from left to right, Romona, Helen Frye, and Rosie Armijo in 1972.
The following snapshots mark the sad occasion of Helen's death. Never again would Smoke Trail Ranch be the same.
See
this story.
Friends
In the Wings of the Wind kitchen, are Faye Crenshaw, Walter Duncan and his wife Betty.
The sadness of having lost her best friend is evident in Faye's face as she takes solace with Helen's cat.
Helen Frye and Rosie Armijo-1967
This page would not be complete without adding this portrait of Faye Crenshaw. Honored locally as "Sedona's First Realtor," Faye was one of Helen's dearest friends. Although this photo was taken at Faye's home, and not the Wings of the Wind, Faye was a frequent visitor to Smoke Trail Ranch for over 30 years!                      1967
Here in about 1975, Dorothea Tanning flew out to Sedona to a wedding, and visits her old friend Helen Frye. Left to right, Dorothea, Helen, Lynn Gray, Rosie Armijo, and Elisa. See more on Dorothea here.
Sun sets on Smoke Trail Valley, as seen from the Wings of the Wind in 1967.
Helen is not gone.....but lives on through this website with stories and photos.
In Memory of Helen Virginia Varner Vanderbilt Frye
1908-1979
Do not stand at my grave and weep, I am not there, I do not sleep.
I am in a thousand winds that blow, I am the softly falling snow.
I am the gentle showers of rain, I am the fields of ripening grain.
I am in the morning hush, I am the graceful rush.
Of beautiful birds in circling flight, I am the starshine of the night.
I am in the flowers that bloom, I am in a quiet room.
I am in the birds that sing, I am in each lovely thing.
Do not stand at my grave and cry, I am not there, I do not die.
Certainly one of the most beautiful poems or eulogies, I have ever heard. I was reminded of it recently when it was recited on our favorite show: "Desperate Housewives." Immediately, I thought, how apropos' it would be for Helen. When I researched the origin of the poem I discovered that it was penned by Mary Elizabeth "Frye", who incidentally was born the same year as Jack Frye, (1904). Need I say, as usual Helen Frye, who often seems to have a spiritual hand in this work seemed to desire that I add this beautiful poem for her. Although the poem has been published in many versions, I choose to use the version that is said to be confirmed by Mary Elizabeth Frye herself.

Shortly after Helen Frye's death, her ashes were scattered from the towering rock cliffs of her Wings of the Wind estate, from here they drifted out over her Smoke Trail Ranch to swirl and settle for an eternity. The image of Helen's real life friend, Gene Tierney riding her horse on Schnebly Hill, in Sedona, spreading ashes, in "Leave Her To Heaven," comes to mind. So with that visual and drama let's continue..... For those out there who feel Helen's spirit when they walk the land of her former ranch, for all the people who visited her there of whom Helen considered part of her extended family, for Helen's friends who know she is still with them each day....perhaps this poem will give you all the peace you seek. For Helen Frye's spirit is an intricate part of Smoke Trail Ranch. I know each time I return to the Frye Ranch I am overwhelmed with the presence of Helen and Jack Frye- on the summer breeze, the red rock dust, the lilt of the birds that sing on the creek, and in the silence of the House of Apache Fires.
The sun sets on the Frye Smoke Trail Ranch
August of 2006.
The incredible Native American music, titled "Earth Mother, is performed by Elan Michaels. It not only enhances this page, but perfectedly highlights Helen Frye, her relationship with the Navajos and Hopis, and her walk on this planet. Thank you Elan, for your wonderful contribution to this work.
Please click on the link to the left, for examples of Elan's beautiful work.
Helen's journey of soul and heart, deep into the most forbidden ceremonies and secrets of the Navajos and Hopis. Helen was a true friend to these sacred tribes, and they showered her with appreciation and love. Please see Journey into Spirit.
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Sedona Legend Helen Frye is most grateful to Rosie Armijo and Bob Bradshaw,
for the permission to use some of the materials found on this page.
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Sedona Legend Helen Frye